Articles | Volume 12, issue 3
https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-12-819-2024
© Author(s) 2024. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-12-819-2024
© Author(s) 2024. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
Research article
| 
26 Jun 2024
Research article |
| 26 Jun 2024
| 26 Jun 2024
Role of the forcing sources in morphodynamic modelling of an embayed beach
Department of Physics, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, C/Jordi Girona 1–3, 08034 Barcelona, Spain
Albert Falqués
Department of Physics, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, C/Jordi Girona 1–3, 08034 Barcelona, Spain
Department of Physics, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, C/Jordi Girona 1–3, 08034 Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Calvete
Department of Physics, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, C/Jordi Girona 1–3, 08034 Barcelona, Spain
Rinse de Swart
Department of Physics, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, C/Jordi Girona 1–3, 08034 Barcelona, Spain
now at: WaterProof Marine Consultancy & Services BV, 8221 RC Lelystad, the Netherlands
Ruth Durán
Institut de Ciències del Mar-CSIC, Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 37, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Candela Marco-Peretó
Institut de Ciències del Mar-CSIC, Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 37, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Marta Marcos
Institut Mediterrani d'Estudis Avançats (UIB-CSIC), C/Miquel Marquès 21, 07190 Esporles, Illes Balears, Spain
Angel Amores
Institut Mediterrani d'Estudis Avançats (UIB-CSIC), C/Miquel Marquès 21, 07190 Esporles, Illes Balears, Spain
Tim Toomey
Institut Mediterrani d'Estudis Avançats (UIB-CSIC), C/Miquel Marquès 21, 07190 Esporles, Illes Balears, Spain
Àngels Fernández-Mora
Balearic Islands Coastal Observing and Forecasting System (SOCIB), Parc Bit, Naorte, Bloc A, 07121 Palma de Mallorca, Illes Balears, Spain
Jorge Guillén
Institut de Ciències del Mar-CSIC, Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 37, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
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Cited
8 citations as recorded by crossref.
- Evaluating coastal dune vulnerability to tropical cyclone forcing using numerical modeling in a data-scarce region E. Pavo-Fernández et al. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-026-13101-1
- Performance of Hybrid Coastal Protection in Extreme Storm Conditions A. Adell et al. https://doi.org/10.1061/JWPED5.WWENG-2332
- Improving the simulation of seasonal beach profile evolution through adaptive calibration of the Delft3D model A. Khosh Kholgh & S. Mahmoudof https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107739
- Process-based sediment mapping – an alternative for dynamic and data-scarce coasts C. Soares et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2026.105085
- Morphological Response of a Sheltered Beach to Extreme Wave and Stream Sediment Delivery Events C. Marco-Peretó et al. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences16010027
- A frequency-aware TCN emulator for operational global-to-nearshore wave downscaling driven by correlation-guided forcing H. Bhirowo et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.127612
- Operational hydrodynamic service as a tool for coastal flood assessment X. Sánchez-Artús et al. https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-749-2025
- Wave breaking characteristics and short-term morphodynamic responses under energetic wave conditions in the Yellow River Estuary M. Han et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.128062
8 citations as recorded by crossref.
- Evaluating coastal dune vulnerability to tropical cyclone forcing using numerical modeling in a data-scarce region E. Pavo-Fernández et al. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12665-026-13101-1
- Performance of Hybrid Coastal Protection in Extreme Storm Conditions A. Adell et al. https://doi.org/10.1061/JWPED5.WWENG-2332
- Improving the simulation of seasonal beach profile evolution through adaptive calibration of the Delft3D model A. Khosh Kholgh & S. Mahmoudof https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2026.107739
- Process-based sediment mapping – an alternative for dynamic and data-scarce coasts C. Soares et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2026.105085
- Morphological Response of a Sheltered Beach to Extreme Wave and Stream Sediment Delivery Events C. Marco-Peretó et al. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences16010027
- A frequency-aware TCN emulator for operational global-to-nearshore wave downscaling driven by correlation-guided forcing H. Bhirowo et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.127612
- Operational hydrodynamic service as a tool for coastal flood assessment X. Sánchez-Artús et al. https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-749-2025
- Wave breaking characteristics and short-term morphodynamic responses under energetic wave conditions in the Yellow River Estuary M. Han et al. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.128062
Saved (final revised paper)
Latest update: 03 Nov 2026
Short summary
The sensitivity to the wave and sea-level forcing sources in predicting a 6-month embayed beach evolution is assessed using two different morphodynamic models. After a successful model calibration using in situ data, other sources are applied. The wave source choice is critical: hindcast data provide wrong results due to an angle bias, whilst the correct dynamics are recovered with the wave conditions from an offshore buoy. The use of different sea-level sources gives no significant differences.
The sensitivity to the wave and sea-level forcing sources in predicting a 6-month embayed beach...
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